Trek Himachal

Thamsar Pass

District Kangra, Himachal Pradesh

Position - N32 13.558 E76 46.665

Altitude – 4747 metres above MSL

Trail Orientation – South - North

Closest Settlement(s) – Plachek (South), Bada Bhangal (North)

Oh Thamsar! The Thamsar of my dreams. The Thamsar that leads to Bada Bhangal. Never judge Thamsar by what I have to say. I dreamt of going to this pass since I was 3 and it took me 25 years before it became a reality. Named probably after one of the lakes on either side of the pass, Thamsar has a romantic appeal paralleled by none. Leading to a village of 400 people, over a centuries old mule trail, its your pass to bliss, a pass to another land, a land untouched by road. There are some makeshift shops on the way, 2 beautiful lakes on either side of the pass, Pir Panjals, 3 sister peaks above Panhartoo, lush green meadows with fabulous yellow flowers and a few waterfalls.

As if, just as if, that was not enough, there are wild strawberries, simple yet fantastic home cooked meals at Rs 30 per person (eat as much as you want) at the shops and the odd chance of cheap mutton. Its a trekker's delight but its a glutton trekker's paradise. After all this, there is Bada Bhangal, a village where you could get free buttermilk, corn flour for makki ki roti, organic apples and the tastiest kidney beans ever. When you cross Thamsar, you don't just cross a pass. You follow in the footsteps of the enterprising shepherds who once crossed here, liked what they saw and set up shop. And the rest is history!

Trekking to Thamsar Pass:

Apart from everything else, there is this other thing about Thamsar Pass which adds to the appeal. Once you get in, getting out is not easy. You either Thamsar your way out or go via Kaliheni and if you are tired of passes, you take a 2 day treachrous, thin trail over a Ravi gorge. Some options, these! Thamsar is not for the faint hearted. If the altitude does not get to you, the remotenes and the length of camping outdoors will. So, as is understandble, despite being a fantastic trek to deeper ranges of the Himalayas, this is not a very trekked trail. When I crossed Thamsar in July 2010, the villagers said we were the first group of trekkers in 2 years to do that and the first for a very long time to carry our stuff on our backs.

Locals normally get into Bada Bhangal from Thamsar around May and get back out the same route around October. Treks normally, for the sake of variety, get in by Thamsar and get out by Kaliheni or the other way round (depending on whether you start from Dharamshala or Manali). Trekking season is anytime between July and Sep. The trail across Thamsar is very easy to follow with horse shoe marks from mules marking the way. There is also enough human traffic at most times and the makeshift shops to keep you happy and satisfied.

If you really want to enjoy trekking across Thamsar, I suggest a freelance guide like Jango, a small group, good fitness to carry your own stuff, no mules and eating mostly what you get along the trail at the shops or the village. Carry enough batteries for the camera, you will take lots of photos.

For the Thamsar trail from Bir, click here. Follow along to Billing, Rajgundha, north to Plachek, Jhodi, Panhartoo and Bhedpal.

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