Dhanraj
Residence: Tyun, District Kullu, Himachal Pradesh
Profession: Shepherd
The label residence above is perhaps as redundant as a label ever got. For a Gaddi shepherd who owns a herd of 200 goats, any place with good pastures is a residence, wherever and whenever they happen to be. And for a man as alive and lively as the 29 year old Dhanraj, any residence is as good as the other. Born in Tyun to Gaddi parents, Dhanraj was always destined to be a shepherd. Educated initially in a primary school and later on the many grasslands of Himachal, he lives the life of a true shepherd. His schedule for shepherd year 2009-10 is as below
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May - July: grasslands near Rohtang pass in Lahaul and Spiti district.
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August – September: grasslands in higher reaches of Kullu district.
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October – November: grasslands on either side of Himri Pass.
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December – January: deciduous forests near Mehatpur, District Una.
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February – April: grasslands on either side of Himri Pass.
As the fortunes of grasslands fluctuate, so does the itinerary from year to year. Months on end are spent at the same place in a Goth (a shepherd stop), which is often a rock overhang acting as a cave, a mud hut in the middle of pastures or sometimes just a patch protected by natural barriers on three sides like the Pheti Goth near Himri pass.
Dhanraj shares his workload with 2-3 friends. At any time, one of the gentlemen is tending to the herds of the group together. A typical day consists of getting up early in the morning, taking the herd out for grazing at around 9 am. I would say following the herd and protecting them is a more apt description for the herd, with stomachs grumbling early in the morning, anyway sets off. So, Dhanraj has no choice but to follow them. The herd comes back for a rest at noon and sets off again after a couple of hours, not to return until nightfall. When the group is around Tyun, they take turns tending to the herd while the others spend time at 'home', meeting family, helping with crop harvests etc. After all, 
Dhanraj, being a father of 2, apart from the herd, needs to spend some time with his children and watch them grow. Revenue comes in by selling grown up goats for meat. Goat wool does not sell because it is not soft and fine, though very warm. So, all the winter clothing for the family is made out of it. Goat's milk also does not sell because of the pungent smell.
Before this becomes a profile of any shepherd, let me tell you why Dhanraj is one who has found his way here. I have seen and met quite a few shepherds. Shepherds, with their cares and a different life often tend to be busy with themselves and are often, not very communicative with outsiders. Dhanraj, though has a world of his own which he loves and also shares willingly with others. We spent a night at Pheti Goth, where Dhanraj was based for 2 months. And out came the shepherd stories; those of his brave gaddi dog protecting his herd from wild animals, those of the same dog's virility and excessive desire for polygamy, those of the little animosities between shepherds from various places and many more. Then, in jest, there was the desire expressed to migrate abroad and the self deprecating humour in saying 'Wahan bhi bhedi charayenge' (वहां भी भेडी चराएंगे, I will shepherd a herd there as well). In the morning, the man with a hair like a large stack of dried grass went down to the stream and out came Antonio Banderas, hair gelled together (with water) and combed tightly back. Its a pity I did not click a photograph then. Some of us might wonder what is special with that, all of us comb our hair. Wait till you become a shepherd for life, living alone most of the times with goats. It is then that your desire to be alive is actually tested. These small things and the enthusiasm these are done with set you apart from the herd.
It is his fierce desire to live and the love of life which sets Dhanraj apart from a herd of shepherds. Unlike Jango, this man has no contact details, he is always out of our coverage area. If you want to meet Dhanraj or another of his kind, you need to seek them in the hills yourself for they wont change their way for anything or anyone.
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