Trek Himachal

Mumbardhar

District Chamba, Himachal Pradesh

Position - N32 30.281 E76 26.433

Altitude – 3153 Metres

Part of Treks:

Chaurasi Ka Dal

I write this page drunk. 5 beers down on my way to a friend's marriage. So, you know this is absolut truth and nothing else. In the last 10 months, I have been to many places, known and not so known, trekked and not not so trekked, internet-ed and not so internet-ed. I have also conferred the label of heaven on earth to Triund, taken it away and given it to Kareri Lake but and this is a big but, I have never been to a place like Mumbardhar. Its not well known, its remote, its really remote, its not visited by anyone except the Gujjars and me but its something that you need to see to believe.

Its what I call the Poonhill of Himachal. I don't like comparisons, I don't like stereotypes. Still, I call it the Poonhill of Himachal. It's a temptation I can't really resist. When you can see the Dhauladhars to the South, Manimahesh range to the East and the inimitable Pir Panjals to the North with a cool breeze caressing your face, a strong sun warming you up, how can you not be human? How can you not be enchanted? How can you be what you were before being there? How can you continue the same existence? Something has to change.

I admire the British, particularly for choosing unbelievable locations for Forest Rest Houses. Quite how they missed Mumbardhar remains a mystery. Its nice they missed it because its then left to the people who are willing to explore. Situated 5 km off a small village called Tundah (and they have a FRH there), Mumbardhar is not a place you would ever hear of. I doubt if it has ever even been so much as mentioned in the cyber world. It has existed as long as the Himalayas. It has been called Mumbardhar for as long as the Gujjars have been visiting the ridge every summer for their buffaloes to graze and fatten.

In the peak of the winters, it a forlorn, barren rolling slope too harsh to support any substantial life. And then the spring sets in. Shoots of green grass turn to thick, soft bed of alpine grass. Small plants start flowering yellow, red, purple and pink. Birds return to life, Gujjars make their way back up to Mumbardhar. Its teeming with life. Buffaloes snort, Gujjar children run braefoot on slopes playing simple games. Goats and sheep of Gaddis bleat in the deodar jungle. The mountains peacefully yet ever so gracefully look on as life comes back. In the middle of the slope are some simple mud huts.

Mumbardhar is a reward reserved for those willing to make the effort. Never ever try to go there as part of a package tour to Bharmour or elsewhere. Do not make a day trip. Don't get disgruntled at the bad road from Dhakog to Tundah. Do any of this and this page is futile. Its meant only for people who can meander here looking for exploration, have enough time to laze around on the slopes for one day without wanting to hurry back to somewhere or something and still feel they did not have enough of the place. This is not a journey which is rewarding in itself. It can be tough but the result more than suffices.

If you want more, go on ahead and explore right upto Chaurasi ka Dal. I bet you will never forget it. So enchanted was I by Mumbardhar that I have enough photos to make an image gallery.

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Mumbardhar

District Chamba, Himachal Pradesh

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