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Up the River Sutlej for......Rs. 5000

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Up the River Sutlej for......Rs. 5000
24 Dec 2009
25 Dec 2009
26 Dec 2009
27 Dec 2009
28 Dec 2009
29 Dec 2009
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I went into the unknown to fulfil a childhood dream. Long ago, around 10 years, I passed a bridge on the River Sutlej at Slapper. The river disappeared upstream into mountains and the bus went along downstream. Ever since, I wondered what would be the world like in those mountains. So, I packed my bag with some essentials and went away to fulfil that dream. Here, in the pages that follow, I present the diary that I wrote on this trip, an insight into what travelling into the unknown made me feel. Everything I saw on the way had been seen by human eyes earlier but my eyes saw all of that for the first time and that for me, was discovering. And I also discovered so much of myself on the way.

 

23 Dec 2009

The thought first occurred a few days ago. Yesterday, I had decided today would be when I start. I only knew Sutlej crossed over into India at Shipki La, a mountain pass on the Indo-Tibet border. That and my start point at Slapper was about what I knew when I started the walk today at 2 PM from Slapper. Just to make it more fun, I also decided yesterday that the trip of discovery would last as long as the 5000 rupees I had drawn from the ATM yesterday. When I started from Slapper, butterflies were fluttering in my stomach and I was wondering if I was making sense at all. A little later, I decided, I was not but that did not matter. I had started and I was not going back. Most of the way, no one was able to tell me anything concrete about the route I would have to follow.

I have now walked almost an hour and see the Kol Dam coming up. Clouds of dust, mounds of dirt, loads of trucks working on damming the Sutlej. The scene is captivating and revolting at the same time. The prowess of man made machines tunnelling the mountains and the prowess of the mountains pushing back the human effort each time.Kol Dam damns Sutlej

When I walked into Ahyn at half past four today evening. I had a sleeping bag and some clothes in my bag and no clue where to stay. Maybe I would ask for shelter at the first village I reached. Ahyn was that village. Asking for shelter at an unknown village where I was a non entity was an act of faith. Figuratively, I bared myself in front of the man I asked for shelter from, hoping he would see nothing wrong and let me in. At that moment, I was the beggar with nothing to give and everything to hope for. Now, sitting in the cosy quilt and a goat fur blanket on a bed, I am wondering what turn my trip would have taken if I had been refused shelter.

I just had dinner with the family I was staying with. When they say guests are an incarnation of god in India, I know which world are they talking about. I was served dinner before everyone else, given the best of everything, offered multiple servings and treated very politely. The slight apprehension I had noticed when I was asking for staying overnight had disappeared and replaced by a genuine concern for my well being. I will sleep well tonight knowing a better world still exists, where people treat each other with the respect they deserve for being the humans they are and not for what they earn, show off or look like.

 

End of day balance: Rs. 4805.

Spent on bus fare, food, water and some food reserves

 



 

Comments  

 
0 #1 Yogender Ambardar 2010-01-11 17:56
You have visited ATM. How come the balance has not increased? You seem to be weak at arithmetic.
Mamaji
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0 #2 Shalabh 2010-01-11 18:12
The balance was 5000 after I visited the ATM. If you are talking about the second withdrawal in RPeo, that was emergency money and was not supposed to be used for this trip. I can see an accounting auditor has read this post. :)
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0 #3 Gaurav 2010-01-12 15:57
Incidentally, I am form Bilaspur in Himachal and could understand your childhood yearning to see where Sutlej comes from...
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0 #4 Vivek 2010-01-12 17:15
What an amazing trip - and a nice way to spend the spend Christmas and New Year...!!!
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0 #5 Amit Kotha 2010-01-12 20:04
I'm thrilled to see you follow your calling...all the best.
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+2 #6 Deven Thacker 2010-01-15 04:56
From the Sarvana Bhavan's Pongal in London to the Khichdi in the villages of Himalayan hills you have covered quite a distance mate
Glad that you are able to realise your childhood dreams and inspire so many of us. Reading your blog brings lot of joy
There is no doubt that you are already going places but more importantly you are finding fulfillment in your life.
Best Wishes
Deven
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0 #7 Vijay Makhijani 2010-05-12 11:38
Great to see you mate. For some odd reason feeling proud that i know u and had an opportunity to work with u. Keep treking through this.

Keep in touch and do update your contact details.
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